The Declawing Debate

By Betty Sleep

You’ve decided to get a cat, but are worried about the furniture. What to do? The first thing not to do, is declaw the poor cat, for a completely natural behaviour.

Scratching serves a number of purposes. First, it sharpens their claws, which way back in time, was a necessity for hunting in the wild. Cats also have scent glands in their paw pads, so that kneading and scratching can become a territorial marking behaviour, much like rubbing their cheek/jowls on items. Plus, they like to scratch..for the sheer pleasure of it. Watch a cat as it reaches up,stretches, kneads, and comes down off a post with a gleam in their eye. This is a feline version of riding an exercise bike while watching t.v. It has a physical benefit and a fun element, too.

Declawing a cat involves the surgical removal of the claw, and first toe joint. Studies say this can cause residual pain and discomfort for up to a week. It has also been known to alter the behaviour of some cats, whether due to the pain, or the trauma of losing a natural function of their paws. For a description and visual explanation of the procedure, visit amby.com/cat_site/dc-wyntk.html.

Consider what it must feel like, to have the ends of toes amputated, and then out of necessity, having to walk on those toes for your most basic needs like going to the bathroom or reaching food.

Another procedure that has been touted as less painful (only two days) and invasive is the tendonectomy, whereby the tendon attached to the first toe joint, is surgically severed, thereby rendering the cat unable to extend it’s claws. This however, does not totally eliminate nail damage, as claws must be kept well trimmed, and in some cases, overgrown ones have curled under and pierced cats' paw pads, when they went unnoticed by the owners. Both these procedures were censured by the Cat Fanciers Association, in 1996 (see www.cfainc.org/health/declawing/html)

The ideal of course, is to get a kitten/cat that has been “trained” to claw only appropriate items. When buying from a breeder, chances are that the kittens have been introduced very early to suitable things such as carpeted posts or sisal rope climbing trees. This introduction is generally made at about the time kittens begin to eat solid food, use the litterbox, and wander from their mother. Our Birman litters first scratching items, are a carpeted two-storey barrel, ideal for hide and seek, and a circular plastic ring,with a ball that can be chased around the exterior channel, while claws can work at the cardboard centre of the toy. These are in a room with tile flooring, so their first focus, is on appropriate items. Later on, when they are allowed to run the house, they head straight for the large cat tree in the livingroom, which is carpet and sisal. So it is possible to direct this kind of behaviour, early on.

If you already have a cat who is scratching at furniture, you might try the soft nail caps. These are “glued” on the cats claws (after they have been properly clipped to a short length), and last 4-6 weeks. Softpaws.com offers an excellent FAQ section on use of the product at http://www.softpaws.com/faqs.html.

If you just can’t bear the idea of furniture being destroyed, please check your local shelter for a cat that has already been declawed. Why put another hapless animal through a painful procedure, when you can save a life by adopting from a rescue facility. Remember, a declawed cat is particularly vulnerable to other animals, and is without their natural defenses.

This is a hot topic, and is debated fiercely. Many veterinarians now automatically book the procedure when doing a neuter or spay. This is not mandatory for you to do, and unless you are already having problems, should not even be suggested to you by a clinic or its staff.

If you’re worried when getting a kitten, start out by training it on a post or cat tree that is theirs to knead and claw. If you have a cat with a behaviour problem, consult your breeder or vet. There are numerous alternatives, from furniture corner covers, to nail caps, to training with water pistols. Don’t make them “toe the line” by removing part of their toes.

About the Author:

I am an obedience instructor, kennel owner, and ten year breeder/exhibitor of Golden Retriever dogs. Over the years I have experienced the best and worst of pet buying and selling, and responsibility/irresponsibility on the part of both breeders and buyers.

That, combined with my other hobby of breeding Birman cats, which I also show, and have placed in several countries, gives me a fairly comprehensive overview of pet care, ownership, training, feeding, and health issues.

I have worked with animals for 30 years, and been a freelance writer for 25 of those, contributing to the fields of fiction, non fiction, historical research, humour, statistal data, childrens works, in a number of medias including television, radio and the Internet.

Currently, I am a service provider on www.elance.com, having filled assignments in editing a health calendar, a 19 page website, creating an ad campaign, and designing logos/web pages. I am also a contributing author for Uncle John's Bathroom Reader Plunges Into History, release date: Sept.20, 2001.

For the last three years, I have been a contractor/host for Talk City Inc; where I was the forum Manager of Health and Wellness, and a topical conference host on a variety of subjects including pet care.

Writing is a hobby and a passion, and works well with my at home activities, here in Canada...when I get a chance between dog walks and litter scooping :-)

Article courtesy of Suite101.com.